2kiwis

It was Danny’s birthday today but we didn’t celebrate much other than wishing him a happy day, the proper party would come later. He did get a few little gifts which was nice.

Things got harder today. I believe that is what is called understatement. From our campsite we would today be climbing up to Dead Woman’s Pass at 4200m and from there descending to our campsite. The whole trip would hopefully take around six hours.

The path moved up past the farmland we had camped on up through a forest and then out the other side to the low vegetation of the high pass. As on day one we had multiple stops and this time the group was more spread out, the slope and altitude taking their toll. It was very much a case of one step after the other with frequent little stops to catch breath and take in the next visible section of trail. We were very lucky with the weather, over the four days we had either sun or a cloudy sky with no rain while we were walking. We also were not walking in searing heat most of the time.

One step, another step, one more step, and stop. Have some water. Continue.

There were two main stopping points on the morning trail, both campsites. The second, called Llulluchapampa, was beautiful with views both up and down the valley and both llama and sheep grazing further up the valley. I was in the first few people to reach this point and wandered around taking in the view. Danny and I both bought a bottle of Gatorade to toast with when we reached the pass ahead.

Looking back down the valley

And also up to the peaks

The path from here was stony and with no more trees we could see most of the way to the top. We had set off quite early and had passed others still packing before starting their walk so were one of the first groups to head up to Dead Woman’s Pass. I walked most of the way with Vanessa and Janet with Albert way ahead proving that age has nothing to do with suitability for walking at altitude (though I think his long legs did help). Dean was not far behind Albert and Sean was nearby as well.

Taking a photo and a breather

Sucking in deep breaths we slowly ate up the meters, setting goals along the way; rest at the sign, the next corner, by that plant up there. Steady effort eventually bought us to the top and we had a well earned rest. Clouds and mist had been appearing and moving over the pass and surrounding mountains all morning and at the top we couldn’t see the valley on the other side, the view was white. The cloud cover and wind meant it was quite cold as we posed for a photo at the top and then we sat back and relaxed while we waited for the whole group to arrive.

At the top of Dead Woman’s Pass

It was nearly an hour before we were all together once more (well, Dean and Albert had set off earlier as they were cold). The sun came out as we waited and I wandered around taking photos of people I recognised coming up the path and then climbing a bit higher to get photos of the clearing view. It had been quiet and peaceful when I had first arrived at the top but by the time the last person came in there were dozens of people, everyone calling out to those they knew and giving encouragement and congratulations. We had a group photo and then got ready to descend.

Looking back at the path travelled so far

Looking towards the valley path ahead

Saul and Oscar

The group photo

I walked with Danny and we were soon half running down the path of stone Inca steps. We had a good trip down and found ourselves in the campsite in under an hour. The campsite was next to a fast flowing stream in a valley with the path from Dead Woman’s Pass passing through and then up the other side of the valley into the mountains. Again the tents were all set up and everything was ready for us. It was still early afternoon when everyone was in camp and as such we spent a lot of time relaxing in between playing cards, sipping hot drinks, having snacks and otherwise waiting for dinner.

One game in particular kept us entertained for hours. Called Mafioso it involved us all sitting around the table in the dinner tent and picking cards. There were a set number of named cards which defined the characters of those taking part. One person would be the game master and called the shots. Two or three people would be Mafia, their task to try and eliminate people without being discovered. Another person would be the Police, trying to discover the Mafia and assist in their discovery. Everyone else would be innocent bystanders, trying to figure out who the Mafia people were.

To play everyone would look at their chosen card and then close their eyes. The game master would then ask only those who had chosen Mafia cards to open their eyes and make themselves known to the games master and each other. Once identified the Mafia would silently indicate someone else who they wanted to be killed, this person playing no more part in the game. Killing done the Mafia would close their eyes and then the game master would ask the Police person to open their eyes. The Police person would silently guess someone they thought was Mafia and the game master would indicate, again silently, if they were correct or not. This done the Police person closed their eyes and then everyone would open their eyes together and the fun began.

Obviously someone had now been killed and this is the first clue towards discovering the Mafia. Everyone discusses who they suspect and a consensus is reached as to who should be accused of being in the Mafia. Here the Mafia are trying to persuade people they are not the guilty parties and are trying to get innocent people accused and therefore taken out of the game. The identity of the Mafia and Police stays secret until they are either found out or the Mafia win the game because there are more of them left than anyone else. The police person cannot flat out accuse someone they have discovered in a Mafia member, they simply have to try and persuade others with reasoning.

It makes more sense once you’re playing the game and was great fun, it definitely made the hours disappear. With another day of walking ahead it took no convincing for people to head to bed early. It rained overnight and a few people had come down with a bug during the day so some had an uncomfortable nights rest.

Leaving Ollantaytambo we drove in the bus towards KM 88, the starting point for our traverse of the Inca Trail. According to my guidebook the town here is called Qorihuayrachina and we were at an altitude of 2600m. Getting off the bus we were greeted by the sight of dozens of men in matching uniforms busily packing gear into backpacks. There were a few different companies present and the most striking uniforms were the blue outfits worn by our team of men (from the company SAS) and another group all in red which I called the red army.

At the staging area

Our packed bags were collected and weighed and then distributed along with everything else into the bags of the porters. Our walking guides were Saul and Oscar and once everyone was ready with their own walking poles and day packs we set off. We walked down from the staging area and across the railway tracks that followed the path of the river in the small canyon below. The first stop of the day was at the sign that showed the path of the Inca Trail and we had a group photo.

A group photo at the start of the Inca Trail

Next up we queued for a while and waited while the Inca Trail staff checked us against the pre-booked walker lists. We all got through fine and walked over the hanging bridge beside the checkpoint before starting off as a group. Saul would stop us regularly for a break and to give us some history on the trail and any archaeological sites that might be nearby. He explained early on that rather than porters we should refer to the men as Chuskis, a Kechwa name meaning Inca Runners. Also, we were to clap and encourage our Chuskis whenever they were passing us. Finally we were introduced to the concept of ‘Inca flat’, being a path that is mostly flat with maybe a small slope, the odd rock staircase, maybe somewhat uneven, and generally just not traditionally flat.

Vanessa, Dean and Sean cross the bridge

Saul, one of our guides

The first Inca ruins seen from the trail

The trail was mostly flat or a shallow rise on day one. There was one steep bit in the middle but it only lasted for a short while. Our group normally had Saul at or near the front and Oscar walking with whoever was at the back. Naturally we all walked at differing speeds so there could be quite a gap front to back and at each stop we waited for the trailing people and let them have a rest before continuing. The pace wasn’t forced, everyone walking at the speed most comfortable to their own abilities.

Lunch was had on the trail. We came to an area with an adjacent campsite across a river and found a tent set up, inside a table and chairs for us all. We put down our gear, washed in the provided wash bowls and then sat. Lunch, in fact all of the meals we were provided with, was tasty and filling with soup followed by a number of platters of food; even a fussy (but improving) eater like me had plenty to have. After eating we had rest time while the Chuskis cleaned everything and packed the tent and tables away. Soon enough we were off again for the next section.

The Chuskis would pass us, normally as a strung out group, after each meal and we would pull to the mountain side of the trail and clap them on. The guys were an inspiration, walking or running with huge packs, some the most awkward shapes, and always arriving ahead of us to set up for the next meal or for the overnight camping. The SAS team seemed to be well organised and equipped with decent shoes, warm clothing and good packs. Some of the other Chuskis we saw were not so well off; worn leather sandals with bare ankles, packs that were nothing more than a large sack with some cloth tied around for a harness, simple clothes and no hats. To see some of these guys over the next few days struggling up hills, sweat dripping, effort etched onto their brow as they trudged on head down to their next stop was humbling, especially when they can be working for next to nothing.

The last section saw us head up a steeper slope, Danny and I at the front and putting quite a distance between ourselves and the rest of the group. We got to a checkpoint and waited for the others to arrive and enjoying a nice break. The rest of the group had actually stopped at a small trout farm to catch some fresh fish for dinner. Once we were all together and sufficiently rested we set off for the last short walk to our campsite. Danny chased some horses ahead of us on the trail and nearly did himself an injury with the over exertion.

The campsite, called Huayllabamba and at 2950m, was on terraces adjacent to the trail and we came through a gap in the hedge lining the path to find all of our tents erected with a cooking tent and our dinner tent on a lower terrace. We could see up the valley towards Dead Woman’s Pass, a stop on the next days walk, and could see peaks in all directions. It was exceptionally pleasant to be able to sit down and not do anything for a while.

Before it got dark we had a little ceremony where we were introduced to the Chuskis. They all gave us their names and the villages they were from and we did the same with names and countries. Then we all shared in a local drink and shook hands. Most of the Chuskis had on local hats, the designs distinct for the village they came from. It was good to meet the men, most of who seemed happy and greeted us warmly.

Meeting the Chuskis

A hot drink in the evening

The dinner tent as night descends

We spent the evening in the dinner tent first eating and then playing games and talking. We were all tired and it was a relatively early night for all.

A bus arrived this morning to transport us through a tour of the Sacred Valley. Our first stop was the Inka site of Sacsayhuaman perched on a hill overlooking Cusco. Our guide Martine sat us down in the wide grassy space between two hill tops and explained about the supposed history of the site. The stones that made up many of the walls and structures of Sacsayhuaman had over the years been pillaged and used in the construction of buildings in Cusco so now the only remaining pieces are those that were too large to move; the cyclopean walls. The largest stones weigh upwards of seventy tonnes and the offset walls make for impressive viewing.

A section of the mortar-less wall

Kelly walks through one of the remaining intact gates

Some of the remaining walls

We had free time to climb up the hill and look over the city of Cusco before walking down to the car park where the bus was parked. There were a few market stalls selling touristy things and a few tiny Peruvian women walking around in traditional clothing leading their llamas around and touting for photographs. I took a few photos, paying a sole each time, and then we were off further into the Sacred Valley.

Looking over Cusco

A woman with her llama

The next destination was the small town of Pisac, set in the valley beneath the steeply rising slopes of the surrounding mountains. We arrived mid morning before there were many people and had a pleasant hour walking around the interesting market. The sellers were generally friendly and not pushy and the quality of goods was excellent. As a thank you surprise a richly coloured rug was bought for Vanessa and it was very graciously received later on. Keryn liked the rug quite a lot but failed to find its equal on a return visit a few days later with Michelle. I found a t-shirt store I liked on the outskirts of the square where the market was located but the shirt I liked wasn’t available in my size; more dieting required perhaps. Upstairs was a funky cafe, devoid of people this early in the day, and I had a nice lemonada to sip on as I looked over the square from the little balcony.

The Sacred Valley

Colour in the Pisac market

Looking to the ancient tree at the center of the market

Inside the cafe

With shopping complete we drove up the mountain road to the ruins of the Inka city that give Pisac its name. Set on the steep upper slopes the site was amazing, I’m sure on a morning with mist in the valley and the golden glow of morning light it must be a magical place. Large, steep terraces curved up the mountain side to culminate in temples and buildings on the peak. The 360 degree view at the top took in the surrounding valleys and mountains. We walked along a cliff-side path and through a tunnel constructed by the Inka before coming out at the main temple structure. Keryn was in quite a bit of pain at this point and Vanessa organised for her to see a Doctor when she got back to Cusco that evening.

This young girl was at the entrance to the Pisac ruins

The Inka terraces

Albert walks through the Inka tunnel

Angie looks over the temple complex

Back in the bus Danny was taking a turn on the tour leaders microphone and got the tour leaders daughter Bridget to great everyone as they got onto the vehicle. When everyone was there we set off for the next Inka site at Ollantaytambo known as The Fortress, stopping for lunch at Urubamba. This was another impressive terraced area on the side of a mountain set in a valley with larger mountains in every direction. Walking up the stairs to the top took quite a bit of effort, just as well we spent a long while at the top listening to Martine tell us about the area and describing the construction of the site. The stone used at Ollantaytambo was actually mined miles away and transported in prepared form, large stones pushed along on logs up long, shallow ramps.

Danny on the bus

Silhouette at The Fortress

Vanessa looks over the valley

Brendon poses with The Fortress as a backdrop

Melissa talked to some local woman at the bottom of the site and she and I ended up having photos with them, I look like a giant next to the little ladies. When we were done it was a short last journey through the adjacent town of Ollantaytambo to a hostal where those of us doing the Inka Trail would be staying for the night. Kerry and Erika were doing the alternative Lares trail and were leaving from Cusco the next morning so they joined Keryn in travelling back to Cusco leaving us to say our goodbyes and then settle into our rooms.

Ollantaytambo is a quaint old town, all cobbled streets and old stone buildings. It was commented a few times that it was like being in a movie set for some film set in the distant past. We ate at a small restaurant on the town square and then went to bed early, packed and ready for the walk starting the next day.