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There were various options for our first day of the GAP adventure proper and we had chosen to visit the pyramids outside of Mexico City at Teotihuacán. This was organised through the hotel and we were met in reception at 9am by our guide for the day, Noah. There were nine of us from the GAP group including Ben and Lisa, Australians who had only got in to Mexico early that morning. We were taken in a van to a larger hotel where the group was joined by four others from other hotels. There was a colossal mix-up by the tour organisers at this point and we had to swap vans a few times before we set off. Shortly after this it was discovered that two people in our van were actually meant to be on a different tour so more van juggling took place at our first stop, the Plaza de las Tres Culturas. The Plaza is an archaeological site with three different styles of architecture on display from different periods of history. We weren’t taken in to the site, rather viewed it from an adjacent balcony. Frankly it was disappointing.

On the ceiling of the Capilla de Pocito

Driving onward we were next taken to the site of the Basilica de Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe. Here we saw a number of different Christian Churches and being a Sunday there were many Mexican’s in attendance, either for Church or to see the sights. We were led through crowds to the Capilla de Pocito, a pretty little chapel associated with an appearance of the Virgin Mary, I spotted a hummingbird at one point, flitting between flowers and hovering briefly before zooming away. We then visited the oldest church on site, the building sinking into the ground and inside apparently held up by the massed scaffolding. Lastly we entered the newest Church on the site; a massive building built in the 70′s and capable of holding over ten thousand worshipers. We joined a crowd of people pressed together and inching forward to view the displayed image of a holy relic – a cloth that showed the image of the Virgin Mark after having being used to carry some roses. The cloth was displayed behind the altar and we looked up at it as we were moved along upon a travelator, installed no doubt to keep the heaving crowd moving. Our last visit was too a shop, something I had no interest in so Keryn and I were quickly back in the van waiting for the last couple to finish their purchasing.

The holy cloth

We were then onward to the pyramids but not before yet another stop, this time at a stone working shop. We were shown a few of the local plants and their uses – the source of tequila for instance. The different kinds of stone used in ancient times for icons and jewellery were displayed and then it was into the shop for a ever so quick sales pitch, a couple of free shots of tequila; once with the traditional lime and salt – the local variation being to dip the lime in the salt and squeeze the mix into the mouth before drinking the shot; secondly a sweeter tequila liquor which was sipped and actually tasted quite nice. We were then left to look around, again I chose to exit rather than bother with the inflated prices.

It was now early in the afternoon and people were getting hungry. Before lunch we were finally taken to the pyramids and they were impressive structures. Noah led us into the site and gave us some background on the two main structures, the temples of the Sun and Moon. The site was busy but the large area meant that it didn’t feel too busy, except when we were climbing the first pyramid, the large Temple of the Sun (Pirámide de Sol).

At the base of the Pirámide de Sol

Climbing with the crowds

There were over two hundred and fifty steps up to the top, thankfully divided into sections. A constant stream of people headed up and down the steps so progress was slow but even so we found our way to the top reasonably quickly. The view at the top was good, the Teotihuacán site laid out below us, the Calzada de Los Muertos (Avenue of the Dead) leading from the base of the Sun temple towards the smaller Temple of the Moon (Pirámide de la Luna). At the apex of the pyramid a congregation of people were milling around and we went to have a look. At the centre point people were knelling to touch a point which we assumed was the exact centre – we’re not sure why. Butterflies were flying overhead and there was a pleasant breeze to keep the temperature comfortable. We admired the view for a while, took a few photos and then headed back to ground level.

Look who I found

We walked along the Calzada past the strangely unenthusiastic sellers of replica statues, bows and arrows, cloth and whistles. Feeling warm after the recent exertion we took shelter from the sun in the Palacio de Quentzalpapálotl. Rested and somewhat rehydrated we then tackled the steps of the Moon Temple. There was only one section open to tourists, the top levels fenced off. The steps here were quite a bit larger than the previous temple and more energy was required to climb but there were fewer tourists here so it wasn’t too bad. Again we stopped at the top, relaxing with some of the others from our group and looking down the Calzada. We all headed down to and made our way back to the Palacio de Quentzalpapálotl to meet Noah at the designated time. Noah showed us a few more sights, murals and carvings and an ancient sauna. Then it was off for lunch.

The view down the Calzada de Los Muertos from the Pirámide de la Luna

Guessing that lunch would probably be relatively expensive Keryn and I had a packed lunch but we still joined the group in the chosen overpriced restaurant, though we didn’t eat anything and drank only some lemonade that Noah bought for us. The food the others had was OK but expensive for what it was. We were entertained by a Mariachi band and then a brief display of native dancing. The very late lunch was the last part of our schedule; we were then driven back into Mexico City. It was good we had a largely disappointing tour now, we’ll try to be smarter and research any future tours rather than take the easy option.

Again we went out for a dinner of tacos, though this time the previous outlets were shut so we tried different places. There were two establishments tried, the second being the same one we had gone too on our first night in Mexico City. The food was again good and very cheap, just the way I like it. No bar for us tonight, an early start in the morning as we head to the city of Puebla.

We went downstairs for the group meeting and were a little confused when no-one had arrived by just past 6pm. Turned out we had our clocks set an hour early, that’ll explain the peaceful morning walk. At the real 6pm we joined with the rest of the group and Juan-Pablo (our tour leader) in the hotel restaurant and we found out about our forthcoming trip and had introductions.

This part of our trip finds us travelling with a number of couples and a mainly Australian group. We didn’t meet two of the couples till the next day but in total we have seven Australians, four Irish, two Germans and ourselves. Names will come later when I remember them.

Juan-Pablo took us out for a walk to find some food. We wandered some of the streets in the vicinity of the Hotel and came across the rag-tag remnants of the marching masses that were heading towards the city square. We joined in and followed for a distance, walking amongst the mainly white shirted citizens while overhead helicopters flew past; TV and radio crews covering the march or Police keeping an eye on the proceedings. The roads were closed to cars so people had spread out. There was no hint of menace in the crowd and we were ignored as we walked and talked, finding out things about our fellow travellers.

Walking with the marchers

We turned away from the march and headed down a side street to find the Taco sellers that Juan-Pablo knew of. The place was a small fast food shop nested in next to another similar establishment and the cook was behind his grill cooking various pieces of meat and other bits and pieces as we arrived. Juan-Pablo explained some of the options and most chose the simple beef taco. Thin steaks were cooked and then placed with queso (cheese) into heated tacos; flat and supple, not hard like the ones back in the UK. We could add a few extras like onion and sauces (mildly hot and hotter again). They were very tasty.

Continuing we headed for the site of a street taco seller that Juan-Pablo knew. Jose was at his usual place and we all had more tacos. I got a photo with Jose, a very friendly man happy to advertise his cooking. After finishing our food those that wish headed out to find a bar for a drink or two.

Paublo and the guest cook

The groups first night together

More walking down unfamiliar streets took us back to the Reforma and eventually to a small bar full of the sound of loud music and chatting customers. We were squeezed into an area near the door and drink orders were taken. The woman serving us was jolly and friendly, if none too impressed at the lack of Spanish on hand (Nina, one of the German girls, being translator when Juan-Pablo was otherwise occupied). AS well as the drinks we were also given a number of trays of food; corn/pork puff-crisps, tacos and something like enchiladas. The local guys at the table behind us consumed most of the food that we tourists were too reticent to eat…much to their amusement. After a couple of drinks it was decided to head back so we made our way out and after a brief 7-11 stop it was home to the Hotel.

We spent today walking and I think the Rough Guide is correct in saying that the altitude of Mexico City makes a person easily tired when they’re not used to the slightly thinner atmosphere. The trip saw us leaving around 9am, via the supermarket for a packed lunch, and then south past the Sullivan Park (no market today which was a pity) and then down to the Paseo de la Reforma, a main road that runs through the center of Mexico City.

The Paseo de la Reforma heads in from the main square of the city down to the Bosque de Chapultepec, a large garden/park area, and this was our destination. As well as the greenery we were also heading to see the Museo Nacional de Antropologia, the largest Museum in the city. The Reforma is lined on both sides with wide paved paths that have gardens and trees along the whole length. There are large carved stone benches at regular intervals and also on the west side we were walking along a number of artistic sculptures that also double as seats. It was a pleasantly cool morning after the overnight rain so we walked without a rest towards the park.

At the El Angel monument on Paseo de la Reforma

Between us and park there were three roundabouts (of sorts) that we walked past. The first had a large palm tree at its center, the second a monument topped by a large golden statue of an angel and the last a fountain. The last two were worth a photo, if for no other reason to give me an excuse to get the camera out (it sounds obvious but I don’t start taking photos until I get the camera out of its bag…I can go half a day with no photos, take a shot and then bang there are things to photograph everywhere).

Need food? Follow the signs in Bosque de Chapultepec (Chapultepec Park)

Arriving at the Bosque de Chapultepec we headed down a broad boulevard to arrive at the Monumento a los Niños Heroes. We sat on a low wall and got our bearings, had a drink and then headed in the direction of the Museo Nacional de Antropologia. We passed along long curving paths lined with stalls being set up offering a bewildering array of things from food to gifts to incredibly tacky tat. Thankfully we were early so didn’t have to bother with the crowds that would appear later. The photo of the sign above gives a small indication of some of the garishness on display.

A Burial room on display in the Museo Nacional de Antropologia

Passing a boating lake and more woodland we followed the signs to find ourselves at the Museum. We passed through the metal detectors at the entrance and then wandered around the large foyer a little lost for what to do next. Eventually we figured out where to pay for entrance and then after a quick trip to the baggage check-in we were through another checkpoint and into the Museum courtyard.

The next few hours saw us walk through each of the themed room groups around the courtyard taking in Central American history in it’s various forms. There were, amongst others, Mayan, Aztec, Gulf of Mexico, and Oaxaca areas all of which contained large numbers of artifacts and historic information. We didn’t spend a long time in any place, partly because most of the displays were labelled in Spanish, partly because of the increasing crowds and partly because we were getting tired. Hence the lack of descriptions with the museum photos, sorry.

This skull doesn’t look happy to be on display

An interesting carving on display in the Museo

We left the Museum and found a shaded area outside to have lunch. We had a number of bread buns, pastries and a doughnut (they seem to like their doughnuts here). While eating we watched a display in the round ahead of us, a number of men in traditional costume dancing to pipe music. There was also a large pole in the center of the round which they climbed and then slowly descended in a ever increasing arc, attached to ropes that had been wound around the top of the pole and which unwound with the upside-down performers coming earthwards. It was interesting to see once but was strangely soulless, there was no evident meaning behind the performance other than the request for money which proceeded.

One of Herbie’s Mexican cousins, found all over the place in Mexico City

After lunch we walked back to the Hotel, passing through the now crowded park. At El Angel there were a large number of police men in attendance, camera crews and also many street sellers trying to sell Mexican flags. It was explained to Keryn that today there would be a protest march from El Angel to the center square of Mexico City. The people would be protesting against the corruption in the police force and the rising levels of crime coupled with the inactivity of the incumbent Mayor to do anything about the situation. The Mexican President would be at the square at the end of the march to hear the peoples concerns. It’ll be a big display but it clashes with our introductory meeting so we’ll be giving it a miss.

Now we’re back at the hotel relaxing before the meeting later. I’m not sure what we’ll be doing tomorrow, it’ll probably depend on what others are interested in but we’ll either be going to a large water park or head out of town to a nearby Pyramid complex.